Novel anti-melanogenic hexapeptoids, PAL-10 and PAL-12

Diverse compound sources are being explored for de-pigmentation activities to develop novel therapeutic agents or functional cosmetic ingredients for hyper-pigmentation disorders. Peptoids are a class of peptidomimetics whose side chains are appended to the nitrogen atom of the peptide backbone, instead of α-carbon. Peptoids are more durable against proteolysis and are being actively investigated in drug discovery, but rarely studied as cosmetic ingredients. Here, we demonstrated that new hexa-peptoids, PAL-10 and PAL-12, can inhibit melanogenesis in B16F10 melanoma cells, a 3D pigmented human skin model (Neoderm^®-ME, Tegoscience Co) and zebrafish. Anti-melanogenic effects of PAL-10 or PAL-12 as compared with arbutin, a positive control in B16F10 cells, Neoderm^®-ME and zebrafish were statistically significant and concentration-dependent anti-melanogenic effects were manifested as determined by image, histology, and melanin contents. Anti-melanogenic effects of PAL-10 appeared to be from enzymatic inhibition of tyrosinase while mRNA expression of melanogenic enzymes was not affected. In conclusion, we demonstrated that PAL-10 and PAL-12 can be used as a new cosmetic ingredient with strong brightening efficacies.